Sunday Dec. 3 – Full Day #4 – Franz Josef Glacier
As soon as we woke up we knew we needed the hit the road. There really was no reason to prolong our stay (let’s get the hell outta here!), plus we had places to be. Peace out Hokitika. We had a little over a 2 hour drive ahead of us and we needed to make our appointment at Franz Josef Glacier by 11:20am (and this couldn’t be missed).
As soon as we hit the road we started to worry. We had been so busy, the day felt like it snuck up on us and we felt underprepared. You see, today was the day we were going to visit the Franz Josef Glacier. In reading the itinerary it looked like we may need some quick drying pants and some wool socks. No jeans or flip flops on the glacier (these are things that was not mentioned to Adam prior to today). (Whatever, Adam, I told you we were going to hike on a glacier so I figured you would pack some pants you could wear in the snow, duh!) We also knew we needed something to eat for breakfast because we knew it was going to be an exhausting day.
With a little panic (well, Angela panics and Adam pretends to keep his cool), we continued down the road not knowing where we were going to get food, much less pants, we started our journey. There was nothing between Hokitika and Franz Josef – I felt confident we were going to starve (I have to eat first thing in the morning or it’s not pretty).
About an hour into the drive we stumbled upon an old gold mining town (you could see that it had been modified to accommodate traveling folks passing through to the glaciers). The only place that was open was a small mom and pop eatery. Adam parked the car and went in. A few minutes later, and after making a new friend, Adam came back out with a coffee, bacon & egg pie, and a sausage roll. -You see, Angela hadn’t had her coffee yet and because of this she wasn’t fully functional.- This was our first experience with the NZ meat pies – looking up online, this is one of their staple dishes…and we must say it was quite good.
After chatting with the waitress/owner of the eatery, Adam learned that therewere plenty of places to get great clothes at the base camp of the mountain (actually a small city that was littered with restaurants, places to stay, and a few outdoor stores). He was relieved. While Adam was in the shop, Angela was also relieved to find out, through a phone call, that most of the gear needed to go on the glacier would be provided. This new news (along with the coffee) allowed Angela to relax and enjoy the drive.
Once we arrived at the “base camp” we toured a few shops and ultimately decided on a good pair of weather pants for both of us. From there, it was off to the check-in counter for the glacier tour. Upon speaking with a tour guide we were notified that the tour had been put on temporary hold (could turn into a permanent hold) due to weather – they would update in about 15-20 minutes. Since we got there a few minutes early and had to wait to see if the tour was going to be cancelled, it just seemed right to have a beer in the parking lot to pass the time (go Team AA!).
After the beer and a bit of packing for the excursion we made it to the check-in counter once again. At this point a lot of words were being thrown around and Adam started getting a little suspicious. He finally had to break down and ask Angela, “Are we going on a helicopter to the glacier???” Well, the answer was yes. Adam was SHOCKED!!! This is why it was possible that the trip would be cancelled – due to the clouds coming in off the mountains. Upon further investigation, on average, trips to the Glacier were canceled due to weather about 60% of the time. So they had us check in, sign our waivers, weigh us (to make sure the weight was evenly distributed on the chopper) and then moved us to the gear area.
In the gear area we were informed that we would not be taking our carefully pre-packed bags with us. We were only able to take what we could fit in our pockets and the fanny/shoulder pack that held our gloves and crampons. (…we’ll get to the crampons later) This news took us by surprise. Adam being the Eagle Scout had our bag stocked and ready for the event that we might have to stay on the Glacier. With us not being able to take it with us, we loaded some snacks, a flashlight (just in case), a cell phone, and Angela’s camera in our pockets and fanny pack. We were also equipped with waterproof boots, a waterproof jacket and waterproof pants. (noticed I say water proof – not water resistant).
Next, we geared up and were given the final go-ahead that the weather was cooperating. Next, our group started out on about a 10-15 minute trek through the rainforest to get to the loading site for the chopper. Angela and Adam stuck close together, excited about their adventure.
As we were sitting & waiting we were informed that we would be taking different helicopters to the glacier – we were going to be split up for the flight. The deer in headlights look came over Angela’s face. This was going to be her first helicopter flight and she wanted her Adam. Surprisingly, Angela was looking on the bright side and thought out loud, “well at least if one crashes one of us will still be alive.” (gotta love her positivity) We tried pleading – but it didn’t work.
Angela was in the first flight, Adam the 2nd. Good news is that Angela got to ride up front in the chopper with the pilot up to the mountain, which was pretty awesome. Adam had to ride in the back of his. (womp, womp, wompppp…)
^Starting to see the glacier up in the mountains.
^My view from the front seat of the helicopter.
^For perspective, the dark area in the center of the glacier is about 1.5x the height of the Eiffel Tower!
^Yeah, that’s a helicopter and a group of people standing up there if you look closely!
^Getting closer! We will land right to the right of that group of people crouched down.
^Here comes Adam!
^He’s alive!
^She’s alive! We’re 2 for 2!
So, Angela got to the Glacier first – it was about a 7-minute flight. Adam followed, arriving about 5 minutes later. Teamed up with our guide, Jordan, and 8 others, we were ready to start our hike…but before we headed out we needed to put on our crampons. These are the sharp, metal cleats that you clamp onto your boots. They worked perfectly. As you walked on the ice, they kept you from slipping. It’s a simple design that’s been used for ages. (Come on, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!)
^Creeping through the crevice! (this wasn’t easy…)
^Smile!
Per our tour guide company Franz Josef Glacier Guides, here are a few facts about Franz Josef Glacier:
– New Zealand’s 4th largest glacier (3100 glaciers are located in the Southern Alps)
– Length: 10.5km = roughly 6.5 miles
– Coverage: 35 sq km = roughly 8650 acres
– Neve Elevation: 1900 – 2400 m = roughly 6230-7840 ft
– Current Status: retreating (since 2008)
The 2+ hour tour was absolutely amazing. Again, we’ll just let the pictures do the talking – because words just can’t describe it. Its an experience that neither one of us will ever forget.
After the tour we made our way back to the heli-pad and trekked back through the rainforest to return our gear. Afterward, we headed across the street to check in to the Rainforest Retreat – our home for the night. With high expectations of checking into a tree house resort we were a little taken aback when we found out it was just a cabin with wood interior, elevated about 4 feet off the ground.
Angela was not happy (she was a monkey in her childhood and she was expecting a tree house… you know, one in the trees). But, we had already stayed in so many amazing places, done so many amazing things. It was okay. We unpacked and decided to hit up the Glacier Hot Pools.
^Not my photo, but you get the idea!
Three different pools at different temperatures were surrounded in a green, lush surrounding. The place was a bit crowded for our taste but it was nice to sit back for a minute in the hot pools and relax. We even met a few blokes from Australia that seemed pretty cool!
Next, we decided to do a little bar hop. First, we stopped at the Snakebite Brewery for a beer (not much to report). Then, we hit up the The Landing. At the Landing we started out outside by the fireplace but had to find a place inside due to the biting bugs (little bastards). Inside, we found a place next to the bar at a couple of tables that were joined together. There were a few folks sitting in close proximity – this was about as close to the bar scene as we were going to get. We ordered our drinks and quickly made friends. We made our standard small talk, had a few more drinks, then decided if we were going to stay for dinner or move on.
We decided to cashout and head to our next establishment, the Monsoon Bar. Like the rest, this was an order at the bar and be seated (no bar stools). So, we grabbed some pints and made our way to a table. The place was packed with groups of young travelers (looked like a big tour company) – and a few locals. From what I can remember, the food was decent – nothing to write home about, but also nothing to complain about, either… and, the drinks were cold. After dinner, we made the short walk back to the “treehouse” and called it a night.
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